Narratives of agency and the material cultural of Masonic and religious embroidery made in Ireland, c.1760-2023: through three case studies

Abstract

This thesis explores the narratives of agency and material culture embedded in Masonic and ecclesiastical embroidery produced in Ireland between 1760 and 2023. Through three case studies, it examines the socio-political and cultural significance of these embroideries, uncovering how Irish women utilised embroidery to assert creative autonomy within restrictive societal structures.


Adopting a multi-method approach, this research integrates archival analysis, object biographies, and practice-based inquiry to investigate embroidered artefacts from private collections, religious institutions, and national archives. The first case study examines Masonic aprons during their golden era (1760–1850), highlighting women’s contributions to a male-dominated institution. The second focuses on the Dun Emer Guild’s creation of banners for Loughrea Cathedral (1903–1904), led by Lily Yeats. Her role as Creative Director underscores the intersection of Ireland’s cultural revival and women’s leadership within the Arts and Crafts Movement. The final case study documents the Tapestry Guild of St. Anne’s Cathedral (1950–2023), emphasising community engagement and long-term contributions to ecclesiastical embroidery.

The findings demonstrate how Irish women leveraged embroidery to carve out spaces for creativity, collaboration, and agency, often within organisations that imposed restrictions on their roles. Additionally, the research underscores the conservation challenges associated with textiles, emphasising the urgent need for their documentation as vital cultural artefacts. This study contributes to Irish textile history and gender studies by framing embroidery as a performative and sociopolitical act. It highlights Irish women’s resilience and ability to navigate societal constraints through craft, offering new insights into the intersections of art, agency, and cultural heritage.

Date of Award	Dec 2024
Original language	English
Supervisor	Karen Fleming (Supervisor) & Joseph Mc Brinn (Supervisor)