Beach Morphodynamics

A.D. Short, D.W.T. Jackson

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingChapter

34 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

The morphodynamic approach to the study of beaches had it origins at the Coastal Studies Institute at Louisiana State University in the late 1960’s, and formed the basis of the Australian approach beginning in the mid-1970’s where it was formalized by Wright and Thom (1977). Unlike the previous fragmented approach to beach studies, the morphodynamic approach provided a time-space framework within which all beach systems could be located at time scales from the instantaneous to the Quaternary, and spatially across all coastal environments. Equally important was the interdependence of processes and morphological response, such that beach systems could be viewed and studied in a state of dynamic equilibrium with the prevailing processes and boundary conditions. This approach enabled the full spectrum of beach systems and types to be identified and characterized and is utilized to examine beach response at scales from the instantaneous, to event, to long-term. This review covers the development of the morphodynamic approach; its application within and across the beach environment; the present level of understanding; and areas requiring more research
LanguageEnglish
Title of host publicationTreatise on Geomorphology
EditorsJohn F. Shroder
Place of PublicationSan Diego
PublisherElsevier
Pages106-129
Volume10
ISBN (Print)9780123747396
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 1 Mar 2013

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morphodynamics
beach
coastal zone
boundary condition
timescale

Keywords

  • beach
  • morphodynamics
  • beach state
  • waves
  • sand transport

Cite this

Short, A. D., & Jackson, D. W. T. (2013). Beach Morphodynamics. In J. F. Shroder (Ed.), Treatise on Geomorphology (Vol. 10, pp. 106-129). San Diego: Elsevier. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00275-X
Short, A.D. ; Jackson, D.W.T. / Beach Morphodynamics. Treatise on Geomorphology. editor / John F. Shroder. Vol. 10 San Diego : Elsevier, 2013. pp. 106-129
@inbook{633da3d20e9c4a5280591a09ab728643,
title = "Beach Morphodynamics",
abstract = "The morphodynamic approach to the study of beaches had it origins at the Coastal Studies Institute at Louisiana State University in the late 1960’s, and formed the basis of the Australian approach beginning in the mid-1970’s where it was formalized by Wright and Thom (1977). Unlike the previous fragmented approach to beach studies, the morphodynamic approach provided a time-space framework within which all beach systems could be located at time scales from the instantaneous to the Quaternary, and spatially across all coastal environments. Equally important was the interdependence of processes and morphological response, such that beach systems could be viewed and studied in a state of dynamic equilibrium with the prevailing processes and boundary conditions. This approach enabled the full spectrum of beach systems and types to be identified and characterized and is utilized to examine beach response at scales from the instantaneous, to event, to long-term. This review covers the development of the morphodynamic approach; its application within and across the beach environment; the present level of understanding; and areas requiring more research",
keywords = "beach, morphodynamics, beach state, waves, sand transport",
author = "A.D. Short and D.W.T. Jackson",
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year = "2013",
month = "3",
day = "1",
doi = "10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00275-X",
language = "English",
isbn = "9780123747396",
volume = "10",
pages = "106--129",
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Short, AD & Jackson, DWT 2013, Beach Morphodynamics. in JF Shroder (ed.), Treatise on Geomorphology. vol. 10, Elsevier, San Diego, pp. 106-129. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00275-X

Beach Morphodynamics. / Short, A.D.; Jackson, D.W.T.

Treatise on Geomorphology. ed. / John F. Shroder. Vol. 10 San Diego : Elsevier, 2013. p. 106-129.

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingChapter

TY - CHAP

T1 - Beach Morphodynamics

AU - Short, A.D.

AU - Jackson, D.W.T.

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PY - 2013/3/1

Y1 - 2013/3/1

N2 - The morphodynamic approach to the study of beaches had it origins at the Coastal Studies Institute at Louisiana State University in the late 1960’s, and formed the basis of the Australian approach beginning in the mid-1970’s where it was formalized by Wright and Thom (1977). Unlike the previous fragmented approach to beach studies, the morphodynamic approach provided a time-space framework within which all beach systems could be located at time scales from the instantaneous to the Quaternary, and spatially across all coastal environments. Equally important was the interdependence of processes and morphological response, such that beach systems could be viewed and studied in a state of dynamic equilibrium with the prevailing processes and boundary conditions. This approach enabled the full spectrum of beach systems and types to be identified and characterized and is utilized to examine beach response at scales from the instantaneous, to event, to long-term. This review covers the development of the morphodynamic approach; its application within and across the beach environment; the present level of understanding; and areas requiring more research

AB - The morphodynamic approach to the study of beaches had it origins at the Coastal Studies Institute at Louisiana State University in the late 1960’s, and formed the basis of the Australian approach beginning in the mid-1970’s where it was formalized by Wright and Thom (1977). Unlike the previous fragmented approach to beach studies, the morphodynamic approach provided a time-space framework within which all beach systems could be located at time scales from the instantaneous to the Quaternary, and spatially across all coastal environments. Equally important was the interdependence of processes and morphological response, such that beach systems could be viewed and studied in a state of dynamic equilibrium with the prevailing processes and boundary conditions. This approach enabled the full spectrum of beach systems and types to be identified and characterized and is utilized to examine beach response at scales from the instantaneous, to event, to long-term. This review covers the development of the morphodynamic approach; its application within and across the beach environment; the present level of understanding; and areas requiring more research

KW - beach

KW - morphodynamics

KW - beach state

KW - waves

KW - sand transport

U2 - 10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00275-X

DO - 10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00275-X

M3 - Chapter

SN - 9780123747396

VL - 10

SP - 106

EP - 129

BT - Treatise on Geomorphology

A2 - Shroder, John F.

PB - Elsevier

CY - San Diego

ER -

Short AD, Jackson DWT. Beach Morphodynamics. In Shroder JF, editor, Treatise on Geomorphology. Vol. 10. San Diego: Elsevier. 2013. p. 106-129 https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00275-X